June
7th
Another
weekend with nothing to do. Sometimes Japan felt exactly like home. I kicked at
the couch leg. “I’m bored. Take me some
place new and exciting.”
Midori
rolled her eyes. “Why must I always entertain you? I’m not your personal tour
guide.”
In
spite of her attitude that’s exactly what she’d become. “Come on. You enjoy
showing me around your hometown.”
“Fine.
How about I take you to Sugamo.”
“Haven’t
heard of the place. What’s exciting to do there?”
She
gave me a mischievous smile. “It’s kind of like Harajuku. Great place for your favorite
pastime—people watching.”
I’d
known Midori long enough to recognize that smile meant trouble. But a little
trouble was just what I needed on a boring Saturday. “Okay. I’m game.”
We hopped the train and headed for Sugamo. I
brought my camera in the hopes of seeing some crazy outfits like the ones the girls
wore in Harajuku. But as soon as I stepped
off the train I knew something was up. I faced a sea of gray haired old
people. “Midori, you sure we got off on
the right stop?”
There
went that crooked smile again. “Oh yes. This is the place. They call it Harajuku
for grandmothers.”
I
could see why as we pushed our way through a mass of little old ladies and men
chattering away and shopping until they dropped. Maybe Sugamo really was
Harajuku for grannies. Midori led me down a labyrinth of streets until we hit a
large series of markets.
We
stopped in front of a lingerie store. I pointed to the old lady underwear
dangling like mobiles from the ceiling. “Why are all the panties red?”
She
chuckled. “Old people believe they keep them warm and promote good
health.”
“I knew the Japanese were superstitious but
that seems nutty.”
Midori
nodded. “I know, but we must respect our grandparents.”
I
pointed to a line of women headed toward the local temple. “What’s the big
attraction?”
“They
are going to Kogan-ji to heal themselves
by bathing the goddess of mercy.”
“Let me guess. They wash the part of the
statue where they have pain.”
“Very
good. You are learning Japanese ways.”
I
stopped in front of a familiar sign. “Yes I am—and
I know what this sign means. They have Love Hotels here? Most of the people
look like they’re in their 80’s. I can't imagine them fooling around.”
Midori
gave me that smile again. “Remember, the red underwear gives them health.”
I
chuckled. “Maybe I should pick up a pair.”
